Part I: Fleur de Sel
The minerals are one of the great things about natural artisanal sea salts, but moisture and crystal complexity can handily trump them when it comes to the subtler pleasures of a dish. The omelet is a case in point. Jennifer is one of the more fanatical aficionados of the egg that I have ever known. Before I even learned her last name, she had me tucking into masterful soufflés, delicately orchestrated eggs Benedict, and unapologetically erotic scrambles of truffled egg. Lately, she has turned her ovicentric brain to that most rudimentary creation of all : the omelette, or omelet for those of you who prefer Freedom version of things over the French .
This is not the place (check out The Meadow’s new new blog, inthecupboard.com) for cooking the ultimate omelette, at least not today, but I will share her ongoing experimentations with choice of salt on the omelette. Today is Pangasinan Star Philippine fleur de sel. Brambly, warm, with large but unctuously crunchy crystals.
The flavor? For me, a 9 out of 10. For Jennifer, whom I suspect has certain secret allegiances to flake salts, colored salts, smoked salts, and maybe even quarried salts, it was on a scale from 1 to 10, an “Oh, I loved it!”
Salting the egg is a serious matter. Iodized or kosher or generic sea salt fall far from of salt’s full potential to breath the eggs unfettered pre-feathery chicken flavor to the fore.
Stay tuned for more omelette and salt combinations, along with uncharacteristically terse ratings from both Mark Bitterman and Jennifer Bitterman.